Banteay Srei Temple

Overview of Banteay Srei Temple

“The lady temple”, “the tiny temple”, “the pink temple”; Banteay Srei goes by many nicknames, an indication of the distinctiveness of this little gem of a temple, which feels so different to the imposing grandeur of the main Angkorian complex.

Originally called Tribhuvanamahesvara, the name Banteay Srei (or Banteay Srey) is a modern one, meaning “citadel of the women” or, “citadel of beauty”. People speculate that this is due to its miniature scale, the pink colour of the limestone, and the elaborate decorative carvings of many devatas (minor female deities) that grace its walls.

The roads have been recently repaired and it takes about 30 minutes from Siem Reap to get to the temple. To reach Banteay Srei, follow the main road north out of Siem Reap, turn right at Angkor Wat and follow the road to Srah Srang where you turn right past Pre Rup.

At the East Mebon there is a check post where you need to obtain clearnce. Turn right again at the road before the East Mebon; pass through the village of Phoum Pradak, where there is a junctions (if you continue straight, after about 5 minutes, you will reach Banteay Samre). At this point, you come to a fork; take the road on the left and follow it to Batneay Srei which you will reach shortly after crossing two rivers – on your left hand side.

Banteay Srei is an exquisite miniature; a fairy palace in the heart of an immense and mysterious forest; the very thing that Grimm delighted to imagine, and that every child’s heart has yearned after, but which mature years has sadly proved too lovely to be true. And here it is, in the Cambodian forest at Banteay Srei, carved not out of the stuff that dreams are made of, but of solid sandstone.

Location: 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) north-east of East Mebon
Access: enter and leave the temple by the east entrance
Date: second half of the 10th century (967)
King: Rajendravarman II (reigned 944-968) and Jayavarman V (reigned 968-1001)
Religion: Hindu (dedicated to Shiva)
Art style: Banteay Srei

Background of Banteay Srei Temple

The enchanting temple of Banteay Srei is nearly everyone’s favorite site. The special charm of this temple lies in its remarkable state of preservation, small size and excellence of decoration.

The unanimous opinion amongst French archaeologists who worked at Angkor is that Banteay Srei is a ‘precious gem’ and a ‘jewel in Khmer art’. Banteay Srei, as it is known by locals, was originally called Isvarapura, according to inscriptions. It was by a Brahmin of royal descent who was spiritual teacher to Jayavarman V. Some describe it a s being closer in architecture and decoration to Indian models than any other temple at Angkor. A special feature of the exquisite decoration was the use of a hard pink sandstone (quartz arenite) where enabled the ‘technique of sandalwood carving with even an Indian scent to it’.

Banteay Srei history & rediscovery

When Banteay Srei was first rediscovered it was thought to date back to the 13th or 14th century due to its refined carvings. However, inscriptions later found at the site place its consecration very precisely on 22nd of April, 967 A.D. It is the only major temple not to be built by a King. The construction is attributed to Yajnavaraha, a courtier and King’s counsellor. The temple was expanded and further built upon in later years and remained in use until at least the 14th century.

The temple was rediscovered in 1914 but the site was not initially cleared. A few years later however, when a French politician and novelist stole some remains from the site, the ensuring attention renewed interest in the area and the restoration process began. The restoration was the first really successful use of anastylosis (the process of using original architectural elements of the building to restore it), a method which was then adopted for the restoration of many other Angkorian monuments.

Architecture

The temple faces the east, with a gate at the start of a causeway which leads to three enclosures. The causeway has the remains of corridors on either side. The two outer enclosures, parts of which have collapsed or been removed to museums, both depict scenes from Hindu mythology. The reddish coloured sandstone, which gives Banteay Srei its nickname of the “pink” temple, is soft and can be carved like wood. This helps explain the masses of ornamental decoration all over the building. Virtually every available surface features intricately portrayed stories and motifs. However it is the inner enclosure housing the two libraries and the sanctuary which features the most elaborate carvings. The temple is predominantly dedicated to Shiva, and so many of the carvings are centered around his figure, although Vishnu does also feature heavily in the buildings on the south side.

When to visit

The ideal time to visit Banteay Srei is in the early morning or late afternoon. The site is very exposed and there is little shade from the heat of the day. The temple doesn’t feature the same mazes of corridors as Bayon, and it’s not possible to sit in the shade of its walls like at Angkor Wat as they are too small to create much shadow. It’s best to visit during the cooler times of day, which can also give you the opportunity for some stunning photos of the pink-coloured temple in the changing light.

How to get there

Banteay Srei is just over 20km from the main Angkor complex and a little over 30km from Siem Reap center. It’s a pretty drive by tuk tuk, through villages and rice fields, and takes around 30 minutes from the temples of Angkor. It’s also possible to do by bicycle, and is accessible by taxi as well. On the way to the temple you will pass the superb Landmine Museum; an information center and NGO which specializes in relief work for children affected by landmines and is well worth a short visit.

Conclusion

Banteay Srei is really quite a different experience to many of the other Angkorian temples. Here the demonstration of wealth, power and the veneration of the gods is apparent in detail and intricacy, rather than in the sense of enormity and gravitas of Angkor Wat or Bayon. It provides an interesting counterpoint for those willing to go a little bit further in their journey of understanding and experiencing the Kingdom of Angkor.