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A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea, located about 68km northeast of Siem Reap, is one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well and truly run riot. Exploring this Titanic of temples, built to the same floor plan as Angkor Wat, is the ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m.
The temple used to be utterly consumed by jungle, but some of the dense foliage has been cut back and cleaned up in recent years. Entering from the south, visitors wend their way over piles of finely chiselled sandstone blocks, through long, dark chambers and between hanging vines. The central tower has completely collapsed, but hidden away among the rubble and foliage are several impressive carvings, including a small but striking rendition of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, as well as a well-preserved library in the northeastern quadrant. The temple is a special place and it is worth taking the time to explore it thoroughly. The large wooden walkway to and around the centre was originally constructed for the filming of Jean-Jacques Annaud’s Two Brothers (2004), set in 1920s French Indochina and starring two tiger cubs.
Beng Mealea was constructed on a large scale. Unfortunately, it is now seriously damaged due primarily to natural degradation and collapse. The main architectural element is sandstone which was taken from nearby quarries. The temple was built on a flat plan in a compound of 14 hectares, and consists of one central sanctuary, surrounded by three galleries and connected by cruciform galleries. It is surrounded by a moat of 1200m in length and 900m in width, a symbol of a cosmos ocean surrounding Mount Meru, the residence of all the Gods. There are four smaller strctures, previously termed “libraries”; two are in the inner enclosure and the other two are in the outer enclosure.
The sites has three ponds located in the east and they are approximately on either side of the main entrance. Srah Keo and Srah Svaytong are in the north and Srah Thmar Baykream is in the south. Beng Mealea has two large structures on the south side of the third enclosure which have been termed “palaces” or halls for ritual ablutions and dances. This type of structure appears before the entrance of the sanctuaries, basins and other places. Generally, it has two levels, the upper level assumed to have been used for King and his family members and the lower level for the members of the court. It has a long causeway that leads from the east entrance to the moat, surrounded by Naga-balustrade and Lion statues. Significantly, there are three other causeways leading to the three other cardinal directions. These causeways are supported by cylindrical columns and also adorned with Naga-balustrades and Lion statues. A cruciform terrace leads to the Gopura of the outer galleries. Furthermore, two architecture innovations can be seen in this temple complex. They are wide vaulted roof galleries in stone and a vault supported on one side by a row of pillars and on the other side by a wall.
Beng Mealea was decorated with 180 lintels, depicting the scenes of Churning the Sea of Milk, Mahabharata, Ramayana and some individual Brahmanic deities such as Siva, Brahma and Ganesha. It is unlikely that the walls did not bear decoration – either bas-reliefs or were probably coated with frescoes as there is no remaining trace of carved stone.
The pediment depicted deity scenes, most of which were presented in multiple levels creating significant style and beauty. Cylindrical columns, divided into 7 sections, are fully decorated with florals and vines can also be seen, and door frames are decorated with flowers, vines and some tiny figures of deities. This type of decoration is also found at Angkor Wat of particular note are: the Dvārapāla (door guardians) figure, which look quite similar to at Banteay Samre temple, in their clothing and especially the fishtail design for the sampot; secondly, a figure of a divinity, who might be sitting on a cow (Siva) or buffalo (Yama), 61cm high; and thirdly, the torso of a male figure, 61cm in height. A further 34 fragments of divinities were found in the year 2000, most of which are fragments of Dvārapāla, lions and columns. It is rare to find the statues of the deities in the temple. However, there are three statues originating from Beng Mealea presently housed in the Depot of Angkor Conservation. The statue of Avalokitesvara with four arms, 140cm in height was found in the first enclosure between the four central sanctuaries and library. According to the four tier design of the, this statue probably was made in the first half of the 12th century CE.
Beng Mealea temple, also known as the “lotus pond” is a great temple to visit. It’s far enough away from town to deter most visitors, but close enough that it can be easily reached.
The lack of visitors makes for a great morning of exploring the temple in relative peace and quiet. This also means that you can get some great photos if you’re into photography.
The thick jungle helps to keep the temple nice and cool, even in the hot season.
The wide open spaces around the temple are also great to sit back and relax. This is especially great if you’re with young kids as they can run around and you can easily keep an eye on them from a distance.
The temple is around 70km from Siem Reap. For years the temple was difficult to access due to the condition of the roads, but now it is a relatively easy journey. A private taxi takes around 1 hour 30 minutes from Siem Reap, and, with a 2 hour wait at the temple should cost between 45-55USD for a return journey. Requesting the driver to take the small roads, away from National Route 6 also gives a lovely quiet drive through Cambodian countryside. It is also possible to take a tuk tuk for a Beng Mealea tour however this can take an extra 30 minutes/hour without a particular saving on cost and a definite difference in comfort!
If you have the whole day to explore some of the more remote Angkorian sites, then you may want to combine a visit to Beng Mealea with a drive up to Koh Ker, or to Kulen Mountain. Another alternative is to return from Beng Mealea via National Route 6 and stop off at the Roluos group of temples on the way back to Siem Reap.
The temple can be a little confusing to explore due to its dilapidated state. There are three galleries which enclose a central sanctuary. Structures referred to as libraries are found on the right and left of the main causeway.
The picture on the left depicts a floor map of the temple, based on a drawing by Léon de Beylié, one of the early Western visitors of the Angkorian temples in the early 20th century. The red line shows the wooden walkway, used to visit the temple.
The tiny 12th-century Buddhist temple of Neak Pean (sometimes written Neak Poan or Neak Poun sits on a circular stone island in a square pool, framed by four more pools, all built on an island in the middle of a lake. The temple’s name means “entwined serpents.”
A favorite Angkor sunset spot, Pre Rup is a 3-tier mountain temple topped with five sanctuary towers. Built in 961 AD as a temple to the Hindu god Shiva, Pre Rup’s name means “turn the body,” and some believe it was used for cremations. Its warm brickwork and red laterite stone look beautiful at sunrise or sunset.
The sprawling temple complex of Angkor Thom, an ancient Khmer capital formerly ringed by a crocodile-infested moat, surpasses the world-famous Angkor Wat in both size and scale. Each of the site’s five gates are heralded by avenues lined with 108 deities that represent good and evil, which provide spectacular photo opportunities before you even step inside.
The Siem Reap Art Center Night Market is open from morning until late in the evening, but it is more of a night market than an art center. Close to the Old Market (Phsar Chaa or Phsar Chas), the site boasts a wealth of stalls selling crafts, souvenirs, the obligatory elephant pants, and snacks.
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Beng Mealea Temple
